Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers / Perfil e predição do desempenho de escaladores indoor

Abstract The aim of this study is to establish somatotype and profile the anthropometric and biomotor characteristics of indoor rock climbers. Fourteen elite level male and ten recreational female Iranian indoor rock climbers completed a battery of tests. All anthropometric measurements were performed according to the recommendations of international standards for anthropometric assessment. Upper body strength and endurance were assessed by isometric tests. Explosive power and balance were also evaluated by Sargent jump and Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT), respectively. Samples' somatotypes were calculated by the method of Heath and Carter. Pearson's correlation coefficient and partial correlations were calculated and stepwise multiple regression analyses were implemented to determine a set of best predictors of elite male climbers' ability. Shoulder width, body fat content, upper-body strength and endurance for females, showed the most correlation with the climbing ability (range: r = 0.46-0.7, p ≤ 0.05), while among the male samples, these correlations with the climbing ability were mostly between WHR, absolute and relative to body mass handgrip strength, SEBT performance and the left-hand digit ratio. The results of stepwise multiple regression revealed that the SEBT performance in the posterior direction of right foot stance and Upper Extremity Girth Index are able to explain 62% of the variance of climbing ability. It is likely that decreasing the fat mass has no direct impact on the climbers' performance. Also, SEBT performance is able to predict 35% of climbing performance. Hence, it seems balance exercises could be effective in improvement of climbing performance.

Resumo O objetivo do estudo foi estabelecer o somatotipo, o perfil antropométrico e neuromotor de escaladores indoor. Quatorze atletas do sexo masculino de elite e 10 atletas recreacionais do sexo feminino do Irã da modalidade escalada indoor participaram da pesquisa. Todas as medidas antropométricas foram coletas conforme padronizações internacionais. Força e resistência dos membros superiores foram avaliadas por teste isométrico. Força explosiva e equilíbrio foram avaliados pelos testes Sargent jump e Star Excursion Balance (SEBT), respectivamente. O somatotipo foi calculado pelo método Heath e Carter. O coeficiente de correlação de Pearson, correlações parciais e a análise de regressão múltipla foram utilizados. Largura do ombro, percentual de gordura corporal, força e resistência dos membros superiores para as mulheres apresentaram correlação positiva com a capacidade de escalar (ranque: r = 0,46-0,70, p ? 0,05). Para os homens, a habilidade de escalar foi associada com a razão cintura estatura, força de preensão manual absoluta e relativa à massa corporal, ao equilíbrio e a proporção digital da mão esquerda. O desempenho no SEBT e o índice de circunferência dos membros superiores tiveram o poder de explicar 62% na variação da capacidade de escalar. É provável que diminuir a massa de gordura não tenha impacto direto no desempenho dos escaladores. Além disso, o desempenho do SEBT é capaz de prever 35% do desempenho de escalada. Portanto, parece que os exercícios de equilíbrio podem ser eficazes na melhoria do desempenho de escalada.

La técnica en la escalada deportiva: una revisión / The technique in the sport climbing: a review

La escalada puede ser definida como una serie de movimientos acíclicos que buscan un desplazamiento del centro de gravedad, manteniendo el equilibrio tanto de forma estática como dinámica. Considerando esta premisa, la técnica deportiva se vuelve fundamental para el logro de este objetivo. La siguiente revisión busca mostrar los avances en los últimos diez años respecto a la técnica y la escalada deportiva. Fueron consultadas cinco bases de datos online considerando los términos “Escalda deportiva”, “Técnica” y “Biomecánica”.Como resultados de la búsqueda fueron encontrados tan solo nueve artículos originales, los cuales a pesar de incluir la técnica de escalada como una variable a considerar en relación a otros parámetros de diversa índole, no logran entregar una descripción adecuada de técnica en escalada deportiva, limitándose a posicionamientos corporales o formas de tomar agarres específicos, sin describir fases u objetivos de las mismas. Queda como tarea hacia el futuro, establecer bases en cuanto a la técnica en la escalada deportiva, considerando comenzar por definir un modelo técnico a nivel nacional que entregue la posibilidad de avanzar de forma estructurada y secuencial en el desarrollo de la técnica deportiva para la escalada y todas las variables implicadas para la mejora de los rendimientos en nuestros deportistas de la mano de la ciencia y la experiencia.

Climbing may be defined as a series of acyclic movements reaching for displacement of the center of gravity, keeping the balance when being both, static and dynamic. Given this premise, sport technique becomes critical to achieving this goal. The following review seeks to show the progress in the last ten regard the sport climbing. Five online databases were consulted including on the words “Sport climbing”, “Technique” and “Biomechanics”. As search results were found only nine original articles, which despite consider climbing technique as a variable to be considered in relation to other parameters of many types, fail to provide an adequate description of technique in sport climbing, limiting just to body positions or ways of taking specific grips, regardless stages or targets. It is the task ahead, to establish bases in terms of technique in sport climbing, considering to start by defining a national technical model that gives the chance to develop in a structured and sequentially way in the sport climbing technique and all the variables involved for improving yields in our athletes with the science and experience as guides.

Multi-domain cognitive screening test for neuropsychological assessment for cognitive decline in acclimatized lowlanders staying at high altitude.

Background & objectives: Ascent to high altitude has been reported to cause hippocampal atrophy and cognitive impairment in mountaineers. We assessed the cognitive performance and probable occurrence of mild cognitive impairment (MCI) in acclimatized lowlanders (ALL) staying at altitudes above 4,300 m for duration above 12 months and validated a multi-domain cognitive screening test (MDCST) for future demographic studies on MCI. Methods: Following evaluation of sensitivity and correlation of the newly developed MDCST battery with Mini Mental State Examination (MMSE) and Clinical Dementia Rating (CDR) scores on a group of 28 individuals, the MDCST battery was validated on a population of 843 ALL staying at high altitude MSL >4,300 m and 862 subjects staying at MSL <230 m. EEG recordings were performed on 840 ALL staying at altitudes above 4,300 m and 743 control subjects staying at MSL <230 m. Results: Percentage prevalence of MCI was 4.18 per cent in the ALL population as assessed by MMSE while that of the LL population was <0.42 per cent. The percentage prevalence of MCI based on calculations from the MDCST scores was 12.4 per cent in the ALL population as compared to 1.19 per cent in the LL population. Decrease in alpha wave amplitude at the T3 and T4 sources in MCI subjects was observed in LL group while there was an increase in amplitude for alpha wave in these regions in the ALL groups. Domain specific MDCST showed decline in immediate recall, procedural memory and mind body co-ordination which was negligible in the LL population. Interpretation & conclusions: MDCST exhibited excellent psychometric properties in terms of sensitivity, and test-retest reliability qualifying it to be used as a more effective cognitive measure for assessment of MCI in demographic studies in comparison to traditional measures. Our findings also showed increased prevalence of MCI in ALL population staying for longer durations at high altitude which is neurophysiologically distinct from MCI leading to Alzheimer's disease.

Efeitos da exposição à altitude sobre os aspectos neuropsicológicos: uma revisão da literatura / Effects of exposure to altitude on neuropsychology aspects: a literature review

OBJETIVO: Discutir os efeitos da exposição à altitude sobre as funções neuropsicológicas. MÉTODO: Foi realizada uma revisão de literatura usando como fonte de pesquisa artigos indexados no Pubmed, no período de 1921 a 2008, utilizando as palavras-chave "cognition and hypoxia", "hypoxia and neuropsychology", "acute hypoxia", "chronic hypoxia" e "acclimatization and hypoxia", além de livros específicos do assunto. DISCUSSÃO: Os efeitos agudos e crônicos da hipóxia podem alterar inúmeras funções neuropsicológicas em diferentes altitudes, decorrentes de alterações fisiológicas que resultam da diminuição parcial de oxigênio (O2), que podem levar as alterações neuropsicológicas, como atenção, memória, tomada de decisão e demais funções executivas, em indivíduos expostos a grandes altitudes. CONCLUSÃO: Indivíduos que se expõem às grandes altitudes devem utilizar suplementação de O2 e prática de aclimatização, entre outras estratégias para minimizar os efeitos negativos da hipóxia nos aspectos neuropsicológicos.

OBJECTIVE: Discuss the effects of altitude exposure on neuropsychological functions. METHOD: We have conducted a literature review using as source indexed articles at Pubmed in the period from 1921 to 2008, using the following key words: "cognition and hypoxia", "hypoxia and neuropsychology", "acute hypoxia", "chronic hypoxia", and "acclimatization and hypoxia", as well as specific books on the subject. DISCUSSION: Acute and chronic effects of Hypoxia can alter many of the neuropsychological functions in different altitudes due to physiological changes resulted by the oxygen (O2) partial decrease that can lead to neuropsychological alterations in individuals exposed to high altitudes. CONCLUSION: Individuals exposed to high altitudes must use an O2 supplementation and the practice of acclimatization, among other strategy ways that can be used in order to minimize the negative effects of hypoxia on neuropsychological aspects.

Ejercicio y la detección del mal agudo de montaña grave / Exercise and the detection of severe acute mountain sickness

El mal agudo de montaña (MAM) es un conjunto de síntomas inespecíficos padecidos por sujetos que ascienden rápidamente desde baja a alta altura sin adecuada aclimatación. Usualmente es autolimitado, pero las formas graves (edema pulmonar y cerebral) pueden causar la muerte. La hipoxemia exagerada en reposo está relacionada con el desarrollo de MAM pero su valor predictivo es limitado. Dado que el ejercicio en altura se acompaña de mayor hipoxemia y síntomas, postulamos el valor predictivo de un simple test de ejercicio para pronosticar MAM grave. Se estudió el valor predictivo de la saturación de oxígeno en reposo y ejercicio submáximo a 2.700 m y 4 300 m en 63 sujetos que ascendían al cerro Aconcagua (6 962 m). Se consideró desaturación de oxígeno con ejercicio a una disminución = 5% respecto al reposo. Se utilizó la escala de Lake-Louise para establecer la presencia de MAM grave. Seis sujetos presentaron MAM grave (9.5%) y requirieron evacuación. La saturación de oxígeno en reposo a 2.700 m no fue significativa para clasificar sujetos que luego desarrollaron MAM grave. Por el contrario, la asociación de desaturación durante el ejercicio a 2.700 m más la saturación inapropiada en reposo a 4.300 m fue significativa para clasificar a los sujetos que desarrollaron MAM grave con un valor predictivo positivo de 80% y un valor predictivo negativo del 97%. Nuestros resultados son relevantes para el montañismo y sugieren la adición de un simple test de ejercicio en la predicción del MAM grave.

Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a group of non-specific symptoms, seen in subjects that ascend from low to high altitude too quickly, without allowing sufficient time to acclimatize. Usually it is self-limiting, but the severe forms (pulmonary and cerebral edema) can be fatal. Exaggerated hypoxemia at rest is related to later development of AMS but its predictive value is limited. Since exercise at altitude induces greater hypoxemia and symptoms, we postulated the predictive value of a simple exercise test to prognosticate severe AMS. We studied the predictive value of the oxygen saturation during rest and sub-maximum exercise at 2.700 m and 4.300 m in 63 subjects that intended the ascent to Mount Aconcagua (6.962 m). We considered exercise oxygen desaturation to a drop of = 5% respect to the resting value. Lake-Louise Score was used to quantify the presence of severe AMS. Six subjects developed severe AMS (9.5%) and required evacuation. Resting oxygen saturation at 2.700 m was not significant to classify subjects that then developed severe AMS. The association of oxygen desaturation during exercise at 2.700 m plus inappropriate resting oxygen saturation at 4.300 m was significant to classify the subjects that then developed severe AMS with a positive predictive value of 80% and a negative predictive value of 97%. Our results are relevant for mountaineering and suggest the use of a simple exercise test in the prediction of severe AMS.

Effect of high altitude on human auditory brainstem responses.

The effect of hypobaric hypoxia on Brain Stem Auditory evoked potentials (BAERs) were studied. BAERs were recorded in 30 volunteers at sea level (SL) and then at high altitude (HA) of 3200 m (HA I) and 4300 m (HA II) in Eastern Himalayas and on return to sea level (RSL). The BAERs were recorded using Nicolet Compact - 4 (USA) in response to monaural auditory stimuli consisting of clicks of 100 ps square pulse at a rate of 15/sec. The BAERs were recorded on day 4 of their stay at 3200 m and 4300 m respectively. Findings indicated an increase in absolute peak latencies of wave V at 3200 m, which was statistically significant. On further ascent to 4300 m there was an increase in absolute peak latencies of wave I and III indicating delay in sensory conduction at the medullo-pontine auditory pathways.

Oxygen saturation response to exercise VO2 at 2100 m and 4350 m in women mountaineering trainees.

Human work performances decreases at high altitude (HA). This decrement does not appear to be similar for every individual, may be due to variety of factors like elevation, mode of induction, work intensity, physical condition and specificity of the subjects. The purpose of the study was to evaluate the effects of alteration in responses of oxygen saturation (SaO2) and oxygen consumption (VO2) to a standard exercise in women mountaineering trainees under hypobaric hypoxia. Experiments were conducted in 2 groups (10 each) of females and compared the difference in responses of native women of moderate altitude with those of the plains/low altitude. A standard exercise test (Modified Harvard Step-Test for women) was performed on a 30 cm stool with 24 cycles/min for 5 min, initially at 2100 m and then at 4350 m. The exercise VO2 values for plains dwelling women achieved apparently VO2max level at both altitude locations with significant reduction in SaO2 during standard exercise. Exercise VO2 values decreased on exposure to 4350 m with further reduction in SaO2. Whereas with same work intensity, under same situation the exercise VO2 values of the moderate altitude women did not appear to have reached VO2max. They also maintained comparatively higher level of SaO2. It may be concluded that hypoxic exposure along with mountaineering training, the moderate altitude women maintained a higher level of SaO2 during standard exercise at both altitude locations, compared to low altitude women who might have lost a compensatory reserve to defend the hypoxic stress to exercise. Thus, moderate altitude women are proved to be better fit for hypoxic tolerance/HA performance.

Hallazgos electrocardiográficos durante el ascenso de alta montaña sin la utilización de oxígeno registrados por el sistema de monitoría continua electrocardiográfica Holter

Se estudiaron los hallazgos electrocardiográficos de siete montañistas durante el ascenso al monte Manaslu (Nepal), por medio de monitoría continua electrocardiográfica (MCE), sin utilización de oxígeno, en alturas que oscilaron entre 3850 y 7250 m. sobre el nivel del mar. Para la valoración de la MCE se tuvieron en cuenta principalmente: frecuencia cardíaca, ritmo y conducción, alteraciones en el segmento ST y en la onda T, duración del espacio QT, forma y tamaño de las ondas T y P. Fue interesante observar que ninguno de los montañistas presentó sintomatología durante le ascenso a alta montaña, sin embargo el MCE revelo alteraciones importante tales como: bradicardias y taquicardias sinusales, extrasistolia ventricular (de LOWN 1 a V), cambios significativos de la onda T y del segmento ST, bloqueo A-V de 2 grado, disociación A-V y paros sinusales. Es de anotar que un montañista presentñ infección viral y bacteriana y en el Eco-M, bidimensional y Doppler, moderado propalso de la valvula mitral sin insuficiencia. Se quiere resaltar la importancia de utilizar un sistema como el MCE el cual permite reconocer cambios electrocardiográficos de importancia en el ascenso a la alta montaña, y por medio del cual se puede valorar y calcular los riesgos a que pueda estar expuesto un montañista en la alta montana sin la utilización de oxígeno. Queda por aclarar en el futuro si estos fenómenos electrocaridográficos hallados en el presente estudio se pueden reproducir en otros montañistas sanos, adecuadamente entrenados y sometidos a situaciones de máximo estrés (psíquico, de altura y de frío)